6/18 Friends is not funny
Wednesday, June 18th, 2008It isn't. But it is the only show in English over here.
I started at Puertos today working with Marta de Alfonso. We are working with wave data, trying to find freak waves. Freak waves are pretty interesting things to study. There are some preliminaries to get into first. There are two ways to calculate freak waves. With the first method, you need to find the significant wave height (distance from trough to crest). To find this, calculate the mean of the highest third of all of the waves. From here anything considered to be a freak wave is over twice the significant wave height. The second method of calculating a freak wave is by calculating the crest height (distance from the mean sea level to the crest of a wave). A freak wave is also considered to occur when the significant wave height is greater than 1.25*Crest Height. I am considering both conditions to be valid so i get a greater number of occurrences. Here is a figure i found online...
There are 3 general categories of freak waves. One is called las tres hermanas (the 3 sisters). Another is when a large wave interacts with a strong current (current acts as a physical barrier) and it breaks (she said this is shoaling?). The last is just a huge wave that gets adds up from many other big waves and just lasts a few seconds and breaks in a huge mess. It sounds pretty cool to me
Freak waves were always considered folk lore told by old fisherman, but they exist. the first documented incident was in 1995 at the draupner oil platform in the north sea. A wave 30 m high came up and damaged the structure while people were on it. Imagine that just for a second. A 9 story building crashing over next to you . Bad news
Ill try to save some more juicy tidbits on freak waves for tomorrow.
Tomorrow I am at Puertos again, the back to Qualitas on friday. My main goal at Qualitas at the moment is making a mask for my Codar data. It is hard. But John sent me some tips in an email so hopefully it will help me. It wouldn't be the first time he has saved me from the ever unforgiving Matlab!
Well that's about it now. Ill try not to be so nerdy next time.....unless you like nerdy---Evan









